03 Jan The 6 Best Places to Visit in Austria
Imagine Austria and your mind might well drift to the lavish palaces and coffeehouses of Vienna, the snow-white peaks of the Tyrolean Alps, the serpentine romance of the Danube and Mozart symphonies ringing out in the baroque concert halls of Salzburg. And if this is your first visit, you’ll undoubtedly want to see all the whole darned lot and more besides. But there is far more to this pocked-sized, landlocked country than at first meets the eye.
Whether you are heading gleefully high into the glaciated mountains of Hohe Tauern National Park, tuning into the latest tech wizardry in future-focused Graz, hiding away in the little-visited wilds of the Bregenzerwald, or tripping along the vineyard-draped wine roads of southern Styria, which have more than a whisper of Tuscany about them, Austria richly rewards those who dare to deviate from the well-trodden track. Here’s our take on the 6 best places to visit in Austria:
Vienna
Few cities move so effortlessly between past and present as Vienna, where Hapsburg emperors ruled the roost for 600 years. The pomp and splendor can be almost overwhelming, as you waltz through vast, exuberantly gilded palaces like the Hofburg and Schönbrunn, tour Klimt-filled galleries like the Upper Belvedere, stroll grand baroque streets, and saunter past follies and Greek gods in landscaped gardens that gaze down upon the city with a kindly eye.
The music of Mozart, Beethoven and that old romantic devil Strauss reverberates in some of the world’s most feted and opulent concert halls: the Musikverein and Staatsoper. And even going for a coffee can be a regal affair at the likes of chandelier-lit Café Central, where all the 19th-century bigwigs once hung out.
But Vienna isn’t all about show. Venture beyond the big-hitters of the Innere Stadt and the Gothic whack of Stephansdom and you’ll find a liveable, loveable capital that moves to its own urban, edgy beat: in parks sprawling along the banks of the Danube, at the MuseumsQuartier, delivering a serious hit of culture in the former baroque imperial stables, and at food markets like Naschmarkt, where Vienna embraces the world in street food and spice.
Zell am See
Perfect for dipping into the ravishingly mountainous Hohe Tauern National Park, the cheerful Alpine resort of Zell am See sits smugly on the shores of a bluest-blue lake, buttressed by lofty peaks, including the glacier-capped 10,509ft (3203m) Kitzsteinhorn, where you can embark on a glacier trail, kick back on a snow beach, spend the night in an igloo, and ski well into summer.
The resort has a real outdoor buzz in summer, with people rocking up to swim, boat, windsurf and stand-up paddleboard on the lake, cycle around or paraglide above it. If you’re a hiker, you’re in for a treat, too: A cable-car zips up to Schmittenhöhe to hook onto the Pinzgauer Spaziergang, one of Austria’s most memorable day hikes, with exhilarating views of the country’s highest peak, 12,461ft (3798m) Grossglockner. The resort also makes a terrific springboard for the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, a head-spinning, helter-skelter drive, with on-high views of waterfalls, lakes, glaciers and a sea of snowy Alps.
Linz
Other Austrian cities flick on the fairy-tale charm, but not Linz. This is where Austria leaps headfirst into the 21st century. With its gaze fixed firmly on the future, this tech-mad trailblazer has an ever-evolving cultural scene, and is making pioneering waves in avant-garde art and architecture, with a flurry of galleries and buildings at the cutting edge of design; all of which helped it snag Unesco City of Media Arts status back in 2014.
At the top of any itinerary is Ars Electronica Center, zooming in on technology, science and digital media. Here you can interact with robots, animate digital objects, print 3D structures, turn your body into musical instruments and (virtually) travel to outer space. Its over-the-Danube rival is the rectangular glass-and-steel Lentos, a vast repository of modern art, with a stash of Warhol, Schiele, Klimt and Kokoschka originals. Both museums have a face-off of illuminations when they strikingly change color by night.
Bad Gastein
Smuggled away in a wildly romantic valley in the glacier-capped Hohe Tauern mountains, Bad Gastein is an instant heart-stealer, with belle époque villas that evoke the grace of a bygone age clinging to sheer, forested slopes, and a 1119ft (341m) waterfall plummeting over cliffs. Over the centuries the town has beguiled everyone – from beauty-conscious Romans to romantic souls such as Schubert and Klimt and royals like Empress Elisabeth – for the miraculous healing powers of its radon-laced thermal hot springs.
Today you can take these same waters at the grotto-filled Felsentherme and architecturally innovative Alpentherme baths. Or, for greater impact, go deep into the bowels of the Gasteiner Heilstollen, a medieval gold mine turned health center, to absorb the radon (taster sessions are available), said to cure all manner of ills from arthritis to fibromyalgia.
One look at the mountains that fling up above the valley and you’ll be itching to head higher. A gondola swings up to 7218ft (2200m) Stubnerkogel, where you can hike across a 459ft-long (140m) suspension bridge for out-of-this-world views deep into the snowy Hohe Tauern peaks, or ski in winter.
Salzburg
Salzburg looks freshly minted for Hollywood. From the moment you arrive, you’re forced to gaze up in wide-eyed wonder: at the soaring spires of its brilliantly baroque Altstadt, home to the Residenz palace, where prince-archbishops once held court, and the copper-domed cathedral; at its high-on-a-hill, 900-year-old fortress, Festung Hohensalzburg; at the cliffs of 1772ft-high (540m) Mönchsberg flinging up above the city; and at the white-wisped peaks of the Alps that pucker up on the horizon. Walking along the banks of the fast-flowing, turquoise Salzach River, it’s hard to fathom a more perfect city.
Salzburg has churned out many a legend, most notably Mozart, who was born in a bright-yellow townhouse on Getreidegasse, which now harbors a museum that’s an ode to the virtuoso. His high-note-hitting rival is Maria of The Sound of Music (1965) fame. Boundless tours and bike rides whizz around the film locations, or devise your own self-guided spin of them.
Graz and the Styrian Wine Roads
With a castle high on a bluff, an Altstadt that’s a jumble of Renaissance courtyards and baroque palaces hinting at nearby Italy, and some strikingly avant-garde galleries, Graz is an endearingly laid-back, cultured city for dipping deeper into the oft-overlooked region of Styria in southern Austria.
Using the city as a base, you can easily strike out onto the Weinstrassen (wine roads) that vein the gently rolling hills, flower-stippled meadows, forests and vineyards that carpet the south of the province. With vineyards marching up steep hillsides and even the odd poppy and cypress tree, this is Austria’s answer to Tuscany (minus the crowds) and perfect road trip territory. As you make your way through towns like Leutschach, Ehrenhausen, Gamlitz and Berghausen, you’ll find wineries opening their doors for tastings and farmhouses offering rustic respite. On the last weekend in September, the region pops many a cork at its Weinlesefest (wine harvest festival).